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Berati: What to visit |
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The Fortress,
is built on a rocky hill on the left bank of the river Osum and is
accessible only from the south. After being burned down by  the Romans
in 200 B.C. the walls were strengthened in the fifth century under
Byzantine Emperor Theodhosius II, and were rebuilt during the 6th
century under the Emperor Justinian and again in the 13th century under
the Despot of Epirus, Michael Angelus Comnenus. The main entrance, on
the north side, is defended by a fortified courtyard and there are
three smaller entrances.
The
fortress of Berat in its present state, even though considerably
damaged, remains a magnificent sight. The surface that it encompasses
made it possible to house a considerable portion of the cities
inhabitants. The buildings inside the fortress were built during the
13th century and because of their characteristic architecture are
preserved as cultural monuments.
The
population of the fortress was Christian, and it had about 20 churches
(most built during the 13th century) and only one mosque, for the use
of the Turkish garrison, (of which there survives only a few ruins and
the base of the minaret). The churches of the fortress were damaged
through years and only some have remained. The Church of St. Mary of
Vllaherna dating from the 13th century, has 16th century mural
paintings by Nikolla, son of the Albania's most famous medieval
painter, Onfuri. In a small tree - planted square, on a hillside inside
the walls of the fortress, stands the fourteenth century Church of the
Holy Trinity. It is built in the form of a Greek cross and has
Byzantine murals. Outside the ramparts is the Church of St. Michael
(Shen Mehill), Built in the thirteenth century. This church is reached
by a steep but perfectly safe path.
Near the entrance, after a
guardhouse, is the little Church of St. Theodore (Shen Todher), which
have wall paintings by Onufri himself.
The most interesting is the cathedral of St. Nicholas,
which has been well restored and is now a museum dedicated to Onufri.
Onufri was the greatest of the 16th century painters in Albania. Not
only was he a master of the techniques of fresco and icons, but he was
the first to introduce a new colour in painting, pink, which was
considered by the French critics as Onufri's red. In addition, Onufri,
introduced a certain realism and a degree of individuality in facial
expression. The first inscription recording Onufri's name was found in
1951, in the Shelqan church. The Kastoria church has a date 23 July
1547 and a reference to Onufri's origin : Une jam Onufri, dhe vij nga
qyteti i shkelqyer i Beratit (I am Onufri, and come from the town of
Berat). Onufri's style in painting was inherited by his son, Nikolla
(Nicholas), though not so successful as his father.
In Onufri's museum
are to be found works of Onufri, his son, Nikolla and other painters'.
There are also numbers of icons and some fine examples of religious
silversmith's work (sacred vessels, icon casings, covers of Gospel
books, etc). Berat Gospels, which date from the forth century, are
copies (the originals are preserved in the National Archives in
Tirana). The church itself has a magnificent iconostasis of carved
wood, with two very fine icons of Christ and the mother of God. The
bishop's throne and the pulpit are also of considerable quality.
Near
the street running down from the fortress is the Bachelors Mosque
(Xhami e Beqareve), built in 1827. this has a handsome portico and an
interesting external decoration of flowers, plants, houses, etc. The
word - beqar, which literally means bachelor, and refers to the young
shop assistants (in practice generally bachelors), whom the merchants
in Berat used as their own private militia.
The King's Mosque
(Xhamia e Mbretit), the oldest in the town built in the reign of
Bayazid II (1481 - 1512), is notable for its fine ceiling.
The Leaden Mosque (Xhamia e Plumbit), built in 1555 and so called from the covering of its cupola. This mosque is the centre of the town.
The Teqe of the Helveti (Teqe e Helvetive), of 1790, with a handsome porch and a carved and gilded ceiling.
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Last Updated ( Sunday, 20 March 2005 )
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